I love using a double edged safety razor. I actually ditched my old Gillette Mach razor over 3 years ago and never looked back.

Somehow, over time we have been duped into believing that these plastic, multi-bladed razors are better than a single bladed, stainless steel one that can last multiple lifetimes.

My experince with traditional shaving started when I was given a badger hair shaving brush as a birthday present along with some Taylors of bond street Sandalwood shaving cream. Even though the shaving brush was entry level, the quality and luxury of my first shave greatly surpassed any experience with a can of compressed shaving foam.

This set me on the journey to rediscover wet shaving. I soon discovered the double edged safety razor. My preconceived notions of these razors were that they were crude, rusty devices that waited to shred your skin at the slightest wrong move.

Boy was I wrong. These are simple, yet elegant devices from a more civilized era. A time when things were made to last and shaving considered an art form and something to be enjoyed.

The double edged safety razor is a thing of beauty and once equipped with the blade of your choice will give you as close a shave as you will ever need.

Shaving Principles Of A Double Edged Safety Razor

If like me you suffer from acne and sensitive skin, you are at risk of inflammation from razor burn. Therefore it is important when starting out to learn the correct techniques and principles. Once mastered, a double edged razor will provide smooth, refreshing and irritation free shave.

Using a double edged safety razor differs from their modern counterparts. Before the 5+ blades would all work at once, meaning one pass of the razor would be the equivalent of 5 passes with a single bladed razor. On paper this sounds great, but the problem lies with the fact the only the first blade has adequate lubrication. The other 4 are scraping across your skin without any lubrication.

With a safety razor, the technique differs in that you do just one pass with the razor, re-lather, then go again.

These passes will usually be:

1. With the grain
2. Across the grain
3. Against the grain

The final pass is optional, but it will give you the closest shave. The benefits of this single pass is that the blade is only ever in contact with your skin when the lubricating shaving cream is present.

The strokes are also different. The fixed head of the safety razor must be held lightly and at around a 450 angle to the surface of your skin. Instead of pressing, you gently allow the weight of the razor to rest against your skin. The razor is then guided in short, downward motions, changing the angle as needed.

The Benefits of A Traditional Shave

Here are some of the benefits I receive from using a double edged razor.

• Skin care – The gentle action of a single pass and a well lucubrated beard and skin reduces the chances of  irritation.
• Cost – After the initial outlay for the razor, the costs are minimal. Razor blades can be purchased cheaply online.
• Quality – The shaving experience is completely different. You are in control of the process and you get to understand your skin better.
• Luxury – The feel of a solid metal razor gently gliding over your skin gently slicing through hairs has to be experienced.
• Blades -You have an almost infinite choice of blades to find the one that suits you the best.

Does It Take Longer?

Yes it does. However the whole process is far more enjoyable and once you become used to the shaving this way, the difference in time is minimal but the benefits completely outweigh the extra time needed.

What Are The Best Double Edged Safety Razors?

This is easy. For the man looking to start out in the traditional double edged safety razor journey, there are only two choices he has to consider. This is either the Merkur HD 34c Safety Razor or the Edwin Jagger DE89 Double Edged Razor.

Although there are many more on the market, these are the two models you should be looking at starting with.

Both are very similar razors made to extremely high standards and are available on Amazon for about $40. They offer the forgiveness needed to learn this new style of shaving as well as provide an excellent razor to provide a top-notch shave for more experienced shavers.

There are variants on both of these models such as longer handles, different finishes, etc. However I would strongly recommend that to begin with you use the classic version of each and take it from there.

Merkur HD 34c Safety Razor

The German company, Merkur of Solingen have been making razors for over 70 years. This is their classic razor that will be the only razor you ever need buy again.  This is a short handled, heavy razor that looks and feels amazing. It is the first safety razor I ever purchased and the one I still use the most. It is perfect to learn on and will get you hooked into traditional shaving.

–> Merkur Heavy Duty Double Edge Razor #34C (Blade Included)

Edwin Jagger DE89 Double Edged Razor

The Edwin Jagger is very similar to the Merkur. It has a closed comb head and offers very similar specifications in all areas including the build quality and weight. The only real difference is that the Edwin Jagger offers a smooth handle as opposed to the Merkur’s bezeled one. It also very highly rated by it’s owners.

–> Edwin Jagger DE89bl Chrome Plated Double Edge Safety Razor

Choosing Razor Blades

This is something that is not quite as simple as choosing a razor. There are a myriad of blades to choose from and no one blade is the best. Everybody has different skin and differed beard hair and experiences each blade differently. Part of the fun is experimenting and exploring different blades from around the world.

It is widely recommended to buy a starter pack of different blades so you can discover what works best for you.

You can buy starter packs in different amounts on Amazon

–> Razor blade sample packs

That said, there are a number of blades that are widely agreed upon to be good starting points for reference. These are:

The Mildest Razor Blades – Derby

This is widely agreed to be the mildest blade as well as one of the cheapest. It is a Turkish brand that is an excellent starting point for everyone as the razor blade is extremely forgiving.

It is the first blade I used and still one I return to, especially when I want a quick shave. It is almost impossible to cut yourself with this blade.

You can buy a bulk packet of 100 blades for around $10. This will last you a lifetime!

–> Derby Razor Blades

The Sharpest Razor Blades – Feather

These Japanese blades are easily considered the sharpest available. There is also an argument for starting with these blades even though the likelihood of nicks and cuts is higher. It will train you to perfect your technique from the start, rather than pick up bad habits with the milder, more forgiving blades like the Derby’s.

For me I find them too sharp and they tend to irritate my skin too much. That said, many people swear by these blades and you should check them out.

These are more expensive and cost around $25 for 100

–> Feather Razor Blades

My Favorite Blades – Astra

These are one of my favorites. A medium sharp blade that lasts a long time and is the perfect balance between forgiving and gives a close shave. These Russian blades are cheap and can be purchased at $11 for a 100.

–> Astra Superior Razor Blades

Wrapping It Up

That just about concludes this post. I hope you have got some good information and a starting point to go out and try traditional doubled edged razors for yourself.

Switching to this style of shaving has completely changed the way I see shaving and had turned it into a joy to do, rather than a chore. My skin is also in much better shape now that I use good quality shaving creams coupled with a single blade that is properly lubricated at all times.

I have been meaning to do a post on the best electric shavers for acne and sensitive skin for a while but have been too busy with work until now. It’s a question I get asked a lot so I thought I’d put together some information for you.

You probably know that wet shaving when you have a bad case of acne is asking for trouble. No matter how well you lubricate your skin, with the razor gliding so close to the skin, you’ll probably end up decapitating acne spots which risk irritating your skin and creating further breakouts.

If your acne is in an extreme phase, then I suggest you either avoid close shaving altogether and stick to a beard trimmer, which when set to the lowest setting, will keep facial hair to a minimum but wont aggravate your skin they same way wet or dry shaving does.

For those with milder or more manageable outbreaks of acne and still can’t wet shave, the best tool for the job is the electric razor. You still get a very close shave, but not that close you risk cutting yourself, plus given the nature of an electric shaver, you can control how close you want to get to problem areas.

A good electric razor can also be operated with either wet or dry skin depending on what suits you best.

Here are the most popular electric shavers for men with acne or sensitive skin currently on the market:

1. Panasonic ES8103S 3-Blade Wet/Dry Rechargeable Electric Shaver

As one of the most popular choices for men looking for an electric shaver and gets consistently good reviews. The beauty with these razors is that they operate both wet and dry. You can even shave whilst in the shower for added convenience which is what I like to do when I need to save time.

With 3 foil heads they easily adapt to the contour of your face allowing for a smooth, aggravation free shave.

You can now pick these up for about $80 on Amazon which is about half their retail price as they have been superseded by this model which is newer.

–>>Panasonic ES8103S Men’s 3-Blade Wet/Dry Rechargeable Electric Shaver with Nanotech Blades

2. Braun 3Series 390CC-4 Shaver

This is the latest version of the hugely popular 390CC. Another extremely highly regarded electric razor which works very well on sensitive skin. Braun are a well regarded German brand that are one of the top players in the electric shaver market.

Although this does not have the wet and dry versatility of the Panasonic, for those seeking a more traditional dry shaving action, this is a very good contender and many people report having good success using this razor with sensitive and acne prone skin.

It is a little more expensive than the Panasonic as it is a newer model, you can currently pick them up on Amazon for just over $100.

–>>Braun 3Series 390CC-4 Shaver

3. Philips Norelco 1250X SensoTouch 3D Electric Razor

 

This is one of the top of the range Phillips electric shavers and is also very highly regarded tool. It consistently receives high praise from all types of users and is one of the top rated shavers on Amazon and on the acne forums. It works as both a wet and dry shaver and again can be used in the shower.

It differs itself from the Braun and the Panasonic as it uses 3 rotary blades instead of a foil, each one being independent so they are free to adapt to any facial contouring which if you suffer from sensitive skin like myself, is a must.

The only drawback with this product is it’s price – at around $180, it is almost double the other two products – which is why I have not put it in first place. However, if budget is not issue then you wont go far wrong with this electric shaver.

–>>Philips Norelco 1250X/46 SensoTouch 3D Electric Razor

Making The Choice

You have to remember that everyone’s skin is different and reacts differently so what works well for one may not work so well for another.

However theses are the most widely used electric shavers by people suffering from acne and sensitive skin on the market today so by choosing one of these you will be in good company. Really its just your budget and preferred shaving style that will help you make the decision.

If you suffer from acne and have had good results with other electric razors on the market, let me know below.

Traditional shaving brushes, when used with a suitable shaving cream, give the best shaving experience for acne prone skin. Shaving brushes allow you to whip up an abundance of smooth shaving cream allowing the razor to glide effortlessly over your skin. They also provide a gentle exfoliating action, removing dead skin.

Usually, when men begin to use a shaving brush and cream, very few return to cans of compressed foam.

Shaving brushes are usually made from badgers hair (hence the old fashioned term “blade and badger”) although synthetic brushes are available, but not as good in our opinion. Boar hair is another option which is cheaper than badger.

The Benefits of Using A Shaving Brush

If you suffer from acne prone skin, using a shaving brush will have the added benefit of:

• Helps create a luxurious and creamy natural lather to lubricate your skin reducing irritation
• The gentle exfoliating action of the brush will help remove dead skin, unblocking pores preventing further acne from developing
• The brush has a softening and lifting action on your facial hairs allowing them to be removed easily with minimal effort
• The need to use less shaving cream or soap on your face reducing chances of a reaction
• Will open up a whole new range of natural shaving products to use when wet shaving
• Coupled with a double edged or cut-throat razor, they’ll make you a real man!

What Are The Different Types of Shaving Brush

You can literally spend as much or as little as you want on a shaving brush. It all depends on your budget and the type of hair used. Getting yourself a “Pure Badger” or “Best Badger” brush will be fine as a starting point and should cost you no more than £20 depending what brand you buy. Boar is also an option if you are on budget.

Although you can buy cheaper, try and spend as much as you can afford at this point. Unless you have some sort of allergy, avoid synthetic hair. The quality makes a big difference to the overall shaving experience; generating a lather and the smoothness on your face. Generally, the tighter the knot and the finer the hair, the better the water retaining qualities a brush has and the easier it will be to generate a lather.

Please bear in mind there are no set rules as to the grades of badger hair. Each manufacturer will have its own standards in hair grading. Here are the list of the general grades of badger hair available:

• Pure Badger – A more than decent entry level brush. Cheap and good starting point into the world of shaving brushes. Buy from a known brand when purchasing this type of brush as quality can vary greatly. Will serve you well while you learn your new skills.

• Best Badger – Depending on the brand, these can either be the same quality as “Pure” or can denote a finer grade of badger hair being used. If this is the case, the hairs tend to be softer with a more dense knot. Another good starting point. Expect to pay a little more for this grade.

• Super Badger – More expensive. This will use a much higher grade of hair that will not have had its ends cut . This makes the tips finer giving a much softer feel on the face. General assembly quality will be improved and often done by hand. The tips are often dyed white for effect. Costs vary greatly, but Simpsons range of Super Badger brushes start at £80. We suggest you work up to one of these brushes as nuances in size and style will be personal and preference only learned after some experience has been gained.

• Silvertip Badger – Generally considered the best grade of badger hair and will cost a lot of money. Uses a rare type of badger hair that is naturally whitened on the end. Very, very soft and has great water retaining qualities. A decent brush of this type will easily start at £100. Anything cheaper should raise concerns over its quality. Again, we suggest working up to this grade.

There are a few more variants to mention about brushes. The length of the hairs, thickness of the knot and the shape of the head. Most of these are down to personal preference but generally, the shorter haired are more suited to generating a lather directly on the face and the longer in a shaving bowl. Although all types should serve you well at doing either to begin with.

Recommended Brands of Shaving Brush and How Much to Spend

The reality is you can spend anywhere from £10 – £200. If you have never used a badger hair shaving brush before then we recommend you start with either a “Pure” or a “Best” badger hair brush that costs around £20 from a well-known brand listed below. If budget is restricted, then you can go cheaper and try a boar or synthetic, but read reviews carefully before purchasing.

Excellent brands of shaving brush to look out for are:

• Simpson
• Edwin Jagger
• Kent
• Tweezerman
• Mühle

A decent badger hair brush, if cared for can easily last you a lifetime. If you don’t have a suitable store near you then most of these brands are all sold either from sites like Amazon or the more specialized shaving stores that now exist.

We hope you have found this article interesting, hopefully introducing you to a new school of thought when it comes to shaving and male skin care. Next time we will be looking at how to make a luxurious lather with a brush and shaving soap that will be suitable for acne prone skin.